Nasolabial folds—the lines that run from the corners of the nose down to the corners of the mouth—are one of the most common skincare concerns and one of the most misunderstood. They're not always wrinkles. They're anatomical features that exist on most faces from young adulthood onward, becoming more visible with age and skin changes.
This distinction matters enormously for what skincare can do. If your concern is the fold itself (the natural anatomy), no topical product will erase it. If your concern is the deepening, shadowing, or wrinkle component overlaid on the fold, topical care can help meaningfully. This guide explains the difference, what skincare realistically does, and the routine that produces the best at-home result.
Nasolabial Fold vs Nasolabial Wrinkle
These terms are often used interchangeably but mean different things:
The Nasolabial Fold
The natural crease between the cheek and the upper lip area. It exists because the cheek fat pad is structurally distinct from the lip area. Even infants have nasolabial folds when they smile. The fold is anatomy.
The Nasolabial Wrinkle
The deepening, etching, or visible line on top of the fold that develops with age, sun exposure, volume loss, and skin laxity. This is the part that changes over time and that responds to intervention.
When someone says "I want to get rid of my nasolabial folds," what they usually mean is that they want to reduce the wrinkle and shadow component that's making the natural fold look more prominent. That's a realistic goal. Erasing the fold itself isn't.
Why Nasolabial Folds Become More Visible Over Time
Three biological changes deepen the visibility of nasolabial folds with age:
1. Midface Volume Loss
The cheek fat pads shrink and migrate downward. The fullness that previously supported the upper face descends, and the fold appears deeper relative to the now-flatter cheek above it. This is the dominant factor for deep folds.
2. Skin Laxity
Loss of collagen and elastin density makes the skin around the fold more deformable. The fold catches more shadow as a result.
3. Repeated Expression
Smiling, laughing, talking—all activate the muscles that create the fold. Decades of repetition reinforce a dynamic fold into a static one.
What Topical Skincare Can Honestly Do
For nasolabial folds, evidence-based topical care can:
1. Restore surface hydration so the wrinkle component (separate from the fold itself) softens 2. Support collagen-adjacent pathways so the surrounding skin reads denser 3. Improve overall midface skin quality so the fold catches less harsh shadow 4. Slow further laxity through daily SPF and antioxidants 5. Improve makeup wear so foundation and concealer don't cake into the fold
Realistic improvement: 10-20% reduction in nasolabial fold *visibility* through skincare alone over 4-6 months. That's the wrinkle and shadow component, not the underlying fold.
The At-Home Routine
A nasolabial-focused routine isn't separate from a comprehensive midface routine. The same fundamentals work:
Morning
1. Gentle, non-stripping cleanser 2. AE Plumping Serum on slightly damp skin, applied across the entire midface and into the nasolabial area 3. Moisturizer suited to your skin type, including the lower face 4. Broad-spectrum SPF 30+ — non-negotiable, including the cheekbones and around the nose 5. Reapply SPF if outdoors
Evening
1. Thorough cleanse (oil cleanse first if wearing SPF/makeup) 2. AE Plumping Serum on damp skin, with attention to the nasolabial area 3. Optional: gentle retinoid 2-4 nights per week 4. Richer night moisturizer
Specific Application Tip
Apply your serum and moisturizer with gentle outward strokes from the nose toward the temples and along the nasolabial area. Don't drag downward. This isn't about lifting—it's about avoiding the small, repeated mechanical stress that compounds over years.
A serum that treats the midface comprehensively
AE Plumping Serum's multi-weight HA + peptides + ceramide NG works as well in the nasolabial area as anywhere else on the face—the integrated formula for visible softening.
Comparison: Intervention Effect on Nasolabial Folds
| Intervention | Wrinkle component | Volume component | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- |
| Daily skincare | Moderate-good | None | $40-100/month |
| Retinoid | Moderate-good | None | $30-200 |
| Botulinum toxin | Limited (folds aren't muscle-driven) | None | N/A here |
| Filler in cheek (volume) | Indirect (lifts above) | Yes | $600-2000/syringe |
| Filler in fold itself | Yes (fills) | Limited | $600-1500/syringe |
| Microneedling | Good | None | $200-500/session |
| Surgical lift | Yes | Yes | $8000-25000 |
For most people considering procedures: cheek volume restoration produces more natural-looking results than direct injection of filler into the fold. Skilled injectors increasingly recommend treating the cause (volume loss above) rather than the symptom (the fold below).
When Skincare Is Enough
For people in their 30s and early 40s with mild-to-moderate nasolabial visibility, disciplined topical care often produces all the improvement they want. The combination of multi-weight hyaluronic acid, peptide signaling, daily SPF, and a moderate retinoid covers the realistic levers.
For people in their late 40s and beyond with more pronounced volume loss, skincare alone may not produce sufficient improvement. The conversation about whether to add procedural support is personal—plenty of people choose to age gracefully without intervention, and that's a valid choice.
What Doesn't Help
Common Questions
Why do my nasolabial folds look worse in some lighting?
Overhead lighting catches the shadow of the fold more harshly than diffuse light. The fold isn't actually deeper in bad lighting—it's just more visible. This is also why folds look more prominent in selfies (which often use overhead lighting).
Can sleeping position affect nasolabial folds?
Yes. Chronic side-sleeping over decades creates asymmetric volume loss and skin laxity, often making the fold deeper on the side you sleep on. Back sleeping or alternating sides helps.
How long until I see results from skincare?
Hydration improvements within 2-3 weeks. Subtle structural support over 8-12 weeks. Visible fold softening (modest) over 4-6 months.
Do filler results last forever?
No—most hyaluronic acid fillers last 9-18 months in the nasolabial area. Maintenance treatments are required. Some longer-lasting fillers exist with their own tradeoffs.
Should I get filler now or wait?
Personal decision based on how much the fold visibility bothers you and your relationship with procedural skincare. There's no medical urgency. Many people benefit from starting with consistent topical care and reassessing after 6 months.
The Verdict
Nasolabial folds are part of normal facial anatomy. The wrinkle and shadow component layered on top is what changes with age and what skincare can help with. A disciplined routine—centered around an integrated formula like AE Plumping Serum—produces meaningful visible improvement in fold prominence over 4-6 months for most people.
If skincare alone hits its ceiling for your concerns, the realistic procedural conversation usually focuses on midface volume restoration rather than direct injection into the fold. Either way, daily skincare remains the foundation that makes everything else look better.
Start the consistent midface routine with AE Plumping Serum.